Stains Removal Tips – Grease, Toner, Ink and Mud

Stains are a difficult thing to deal with, and this is why we ask for help each time it happens. This is why today we are giving some really helpful tips in case you have some difficult stains going on.

Grass Stains

The grass is a bit tougher than other biological stains, because, much like red wine, it’s a fairly effective dye—especially on light-colored clothing. Start with an enzymatic cleaner, preferably one specifically designed to tackle these kinds of stains. If there’s some stain leftover, or enzymatic cleaners don’t meet the bill, try an acid, such as diluted vinegar, to pull the stain out of the fabric.

However, before you apply any vinegar to dyed cloth, put a small amount on a clean area of the garment that people won’t see, wait for a few minutes, and then wash it out. This will tell you whether the vinegar reacts with the dyed clothing. If it damages the material, then you may want to consult with a dry cleaner instead of tackling the stain on your own.

Grease

Gearheads and Chefs alike end up smearing grease on their clothes. To capture this hydrophobic substance, you’ll need a surfactant like a dish soap. Apply a small dab to the area, wet it, gently rub it in, and wash it out.

For really tough grease stains, look for industrial soaps. They use the same action but have a stronger pull. However, for delicate garments that aren’t colorfast—that is, where the dye hasn’t fully permeated the fibers—industrial soap may strip dye as well as grease out of your clothing.

Toner and ink

Since the ink is the kind of solution that is supposed to be permanent, you need to resort to solvents for this type of stain. (This is why your parents run for the hairspray; it used to be loaded with alcohol, although you won’t find that solvent in most modern formulas.) To lift it out, you need to bust out a rag and some alcohol. Soak a sturdy cloth rag that you won’t mind ruining in the solvent; as the ink dissolves, it’ll transfer to the rag. After you’ve dabbed the stain a few times, try applying an oxidizer to take the color out of what’s left.

Mud will require everything in your toolkit because dirt contains a mix of everything. First, dry out the mud completely and brush off as much as you can. Then hit it with a surfactant and some cold water. After that, if the fabric can take vinegar, apply some of the acids to eat away at other parts of the mud. Anything left will succumb to enzymes. We also recommend using psychology: Make whoever is responsible for the mud stains do all this; it’s a superb way to stop those stains before they start.

These are just the most common stains, of course, but what’s most important is the toolkit. Once you understand both how the stain works, and how different cleaners clear it away, the battle against contaminants is (almost) won.